In Provence, the Christmas season starts December 4 with the day of St Barbe, with the traditional sowing of wheat and lentils on 3 dishes covered with cotton pads. In every home, as the fresh green shoots grow, the ‘small fields’ symbolize prosperity. Provence enjoys a number of festivities and rituals throughout December but the best known ones are probably the Christmas cribs and Santons, Christmas markets and the Christmas 13 desserts.
Santons are Christmas crib figures representing villagers going to the crib. The word comes from the Provençal “Santoun” and means Little Saint. The Marseilles Santons Fair is one of the most popular and lively traditions in the city. It takes place every year from the last Sunday in November through December 31. Originally, the figures were shaped from the dried soft interior of bread, then oil painted and varnished. Today’s tradition has them made from the local red clay. They decorate every Provence apartment and house’s family crib by the Christmas tree.
The Christmas 13 desserts are served upon returning from the Christmas Mass and remain on the table for 3 days.
They are mainly dried fruit and nuts. Dried figs, almond, raisin and walnut are called the 4 beggars; dates symbolize Christ; white and black Nougat represent the white and the black penitents; the pompe à huile (literally “oil pump”) is a flat, round shaped bread enriched in olive oil; pâte de coing (quince jellied paste) or candied fruit; oreillettes (literally small ears), a thin waffle ear shaped and flavored with orange blossom water; fresh local fruit (mandarins, oranges, pears, grapes and winter melons).
Christmas markets flourish in many Provence villages and cities. They make Provence worth visiting in December and for those who will be by the sea, then why not join in the “Bain de Noël” and go for a swim in the fresh but invigorating seawaters. Nice has made it a tradition and the Bain de Noël on the Promenade des Anglais takes place every year a few days before Christmas.
My family and I are contemplating celebrating Christmas in Provence, possibly in the Nice or Aix-en-Provence regions. Is someone able to tell me what the weather is like in South France during the winter time, and also if you knew about places that should definitely be on our list to visit, I would appreciate any input. Many thanks!
Hi Sydney,
The weather is mild but you definitely need the jacket during the winter season. You can visit the Nativities and the Provencal Christmas markets.